{"id":3428,"date":"2025-02-11T19:27:18","date_gmt":"2025-02-11T19:27:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/?page_id=3428"},"modified":"2025-04-23T14:07:48","modified_gmt":"2025-04-23T14:07:48","slug":"africa-2005-part-5","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/africa-2005-part-5\/","title":{"rendered":"Africa 2025 – Part 5"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

8 April 2025<\/strong>

Our morning began at 7:00. We took a load of stuff to the truck and went for breakfast at 7:30.  We both opted for cheese omelettes with toast.  We got the rest of our stuff organized and left the camp just before 9:00. It took us 45 minutes to go the first 15 kilometers along the sand track to Etsha 13. From there, we were back to the main road, which was paved in places, and in other places was completely washed out. So, the next 85 kilometers took us an hour and 45 minutes.  We were starting to get nervous that we would make it to the border crossing before the 4 o\u2019clock closing time.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We turned onto the final tract with 140 kilometers to go to the border. Our advisor, Phil, had told us that  the track was sand and gravel and in poor condition. In actuality, it was better than the \u201cpaved\u201d road.  We were able to maintain about 50 to 60 KPH in our race to the border and arrived just before 3:00.  That included 25 to 30 water crossings and countless slow downs for cattle and donkeys. And the butterflies were swarming everywhere. Markus said that if they had been snow, it would have been a white out! We got through immigration on both sides and proceeded another 50 kilometers to Tsumke.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Note about border crossing – we were looking for a tent for Botswana Immigration but it got blown down in the February rains. Also, we were only the third vehicle to cross that day – we crossed at 3:00; the prior vehicle that crossed was just before 11:00 am. Talk about a boring job!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We stopped briefly for fuel, but were inundated with locals trying to sell various wares. So we opted for only N$400 in fuel, paid in cash, and immediately turned towards the lodge campsite.  When we checked in, it appeared that we were going to be assigned to campsite one, but as we got closer, it was completely flooded. So alternatively, we were designated campsite four, which was nice and dry, and of course had its own private ablutions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L to R: Roadblock; Tsumkwe Camp Reception; Campsite Four<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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It had been a long day, so we had a quick dinner of pasta and bread and headed for bed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Accommodation: Camp at Tucsin Tsumkwe Camp<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Travel Distance \/ Time: 290 KMS \/ 7:15<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wildlife Spotted: Impala, Klip Springer, Monkey, Ostrich<\/p>\n\n\n\n

9 April 2025<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We were up at 6:30, had the tent down, ate breakfast, made peanut butter sandwiches for the road, cleaned up, brushed our teeth, and were out the gate at 7:30. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We had a long way to travel – 440 kilometers.  We anticipated an 8-hour drive. The first half of the trip (220 kilometers) was on gravel \/ sand. It was a pretty good road for the most part and we were able to average 55-60 kilometers per hour. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Once we hit pavement, we were able to pick up the pace. We stopped in Tsumbe for diesel and food – then we had only ~100 kms to go.  It took just about an hour and we were turning into Onguma, which is just outside of Etosha. The campsite is really nice with a private shower, toilet, and utility area (dishes \/ laundry). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We hung out for a couple of hours and then got dinner going – pork chops and beans. Clean up was fast since we have a \u201ckitchen\u201d sink. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unlike other places that we have been, the campground is busy.  All of the sites around us are occupied.  Fortunately, each site is fairly private. Today was a travel day so we don\u2019t have much to write about. Game sighting was nearly non-existent. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Accommodation: Camp at Onguma Tamboti Campsite<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Travel Distance \/ Time: 446 KMS \/ 8:15<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Game Spotted: Klip Springer; Crimson Breasted Shrike; Lilac Breasted Roller<\/p>\n\n\n\n

10 April 2025<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Etosha Pan<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We were up at 7:00 this morning and took our time stowing the tent, etc. We had a warm shower – the water was not that hot. Then we went for breakfast at the restaurant. Yes, there was a restaurant at the campground – a very nice one, at that! We both had scrambled eggs and bacon. It was very good and super reasonable at less than USD 15 for both of us. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We left Onguma at 9:45 and entered Etosha about 15 minutes later. We had to stop at Namutoni to pay our park fees for two days as we are camping in the park tonight and tomorrow night. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We had about 150 kilometers to go on the main road to get to our campsite. We took a few detours along the way and saw quite a bit of game. Unfortunately, no big cats. The main road (gravel) was fairly good, although the last 20 kilometers were significantly potholed – very slow going. In total, it took us 6 hours.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We got to our campsite and remembered that we had stayed at this same camp back in 2005. There is absolutely no privacy; the campsites are literally on top of each other.  And, there is widespread flooding, which makes it tricky to find a dry path to the ablutions. Retrospectively, once we saw our campsite, we should have gone back to reception and enquired about renting a chalet for the night instead. Hindsight is 20\/20! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Panoramic View of Okaukuejo Campsite (It Sucked!)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ernest’s Overlander<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We met our neighbors from campsite 23 in the evening. They are from Cape Town, and Ernest was particularly friendly. He told me that he is 80 years old and that he and his wife have traveled up and down the east coast of Africa at least 15 times. He said that the secret to life is to keep active – don’t ever stop! He had the most incredible overland vehicle that we have seen on this trip. I asked him if I could take a picture, and of course, he said yes!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We kept dinner super simple – tuna with crackers and cup a soup. The camp is quite large with about 90 chalets and at least 40 campsites. There is a small store that sells meat and other essentials. And, there is a restaurant.   The highlight of the camp is the waterhole. When we were here 20 years ago, a male lion came into drink at 3:00 am. He let out a huge roar that was heard throughout the entire camp. It was quite exciting!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately, there was no such excitement in 2025!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Accommodation: Camp at Okaukuejo Camp<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Travel Distance \/ Time: 158 KMS \/ 6:00<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wildlife Spotted: Black Faced Impala, Gemsbok, Klip Springer, Kori Bustard, Ostrich, Red Hartebeest, Springbok, Wildebeest, Zebra<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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11 April 2025<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We tried to sleep in this morning but the camp was really active so we gave up at 7:30. Neither of us slept well last night – me because I had to get up three times for the bathroom, which was a 5 minute round trip walk and Markus because he accompanied me on all three trips.  (I will never again take for granted my en-suite bathroom!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, the waterhole was a bust last night – this morning was no different. \u201cNobody home\u201d as our guide, Moses, from Limpopo Limpati, was fond of saying. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anyway, we made coffee, had yogurt and granola for breakfast, and left Okuajueho a few minutes after 9:00.  The drive was kind of boring – we saw game, but nothing out of the ordinary. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Etosha Wildlife<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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We got to Olifantrus by 1:30. We were the third party to check in so we got to pick among the remaining eight campsites (there are 10). We opted for one in the rear, which is very private and reasonably close to the ablutions (unlike last night). Also, the waterhole is just steps away. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Etosha \/ Olifantrus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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We had a quick lunch of leftover pasta and then I did some laundry. I hung it in the sun to dry and less than two hours later, it was almost entirely dry. Dinner was cream of chicken soup with wild rice. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Accommodation: Camp at Olifantsrus Campsite<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Travel Distance \/ Time: 130 KMS \/ 4:30<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wildlife Spotted: Gemsbok, Klip Springer, Kori Bustard, Ostrich, Red Hartebeest, Springbok, Wildebeest, Zebra<\/p>\n\n\n\n

12 April 2025<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We slept until almost 7:30 this morning (the camp was MUCH quieter!), took our time with breakfast (oatmeal) and getting everything put away. It was just before 9:00 when we got on the road toward the Galton Gate. Again, we saw a fair amount of game, but just the usual suspects. Although, we did see some mountain zebra, which are slightly different than the plains zebra in that they have stripes all the way down their legs and they are a bit darker in color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The drive was somewhat boring; after we left Etosha, the road was paved for the first 66 kilometers, then the remaining 200 kilometers was sand \/ gravel – good in some places, quite bad in others. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As we got near the turnoff for the camp, we had a few minutes of uncertainty. Our Drive Botswana directions differed from the GPS by 15 kilometers. The GPS was directing us down a track that was not signposted for Ondjamba Hills. Lucky for us, there was a safari vehicle right at the intersection and we asked the guide if the turnoff was correct. He told us that it used to be signposted for Ondjamba but that he didn’t think you could cross the river any longer on that tract. He motioned for us to proceed in an arc further down the main road. So, that’s exactly what we did. We drove 1-2 kilometers and saw a sign “Ondjamba Hills – Proceed 14 Kilometers”. This made us feel much better that we were headed in the right direction! 25 kilometers later, and we pulled into the car park.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The camp is set above the river bed; a vehicle meets you in the parking area (in the dry river bed) and brings you up to the camp. It is really quite beautiful! We got checked in and got to our tent, which, as expected, was blazing hot. We settled in and spent the balance of the afternoon sitting on our shaded porch, drinking wine, and attempting to, but failing to, stay cool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We went for dinner at 7:15 and were shown to a “Reserved” table (no other tables were reserved) that was set with a bottle of bubbly for my birthday. The menu was pea soup to start, oryx steak with potatoes for the main, and cake for dessert. Also, after dinner, the staff came out and sang then gave me a small birthday cake. I was so full that I couldn’t even try my cake. I felt really bad, but I hoped that, since I didn’t touch it, the staff would enjoy it instead!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Accommodation: Ondjamba Hills Camp<\/a> (2 Nights; D, B & B)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Travel Distance \/ Time: 327 KMS \/ 7:00<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wildlife Spotted: Gemsbok, Giraffe, Jackal, Klip Springer, Ostrich, Red Hartebeest, Springbok, Tawny Eagle, Warthog, Wildebeest, Zebra<\/p>\n\n\n\n

13 April 2025<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We managed to sleep until 7:45 this morning – blissful! We went to breakfast at 8:15, ate omelets, and then spent the day doing absolutely nothing except catching up on our blog (we know that we are way behind on our pictures, but the internet wasn’t fast enough). The day was incredibly hot – mid-90’s, so by 12:30, we were more than ready for a beer (truth be told, I was ready at 9:30 but I managed to show some restraint!). Around 2:00, we decided that we should probably have some lunch, since it was more than 5 hours since we had last eaten. The menu was simple – burger, chicken wrap, or beef wrap. I opted for the chicken wrap and Markus had the burger. Once again, we should have shared because we were full to the gills after eating. We aren’t really used to eating lunch; we typically only have a snack at mid-day, so to eat three meals is unusual for us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anyway, the day got hotter and hotter and we roamed from shade to shade – the gazebo lounge, our front porch, the swimming pool, etc. (Note about the pool: there were about 15 people in the pool, and it was barely larger than a hot tub!) You know it’s hot when you have to wait for the cold water tap to cool down from scalding when you turn it on! Finally, at 6:00ish, the sun was setting and the temperature started to cool. Even as I type this at 7:00, the breeze has picked up to about 20 mph and the temperature has cooled by at least 15*. It’s actually quite pleasant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Incidentally, we considered going on the sundowner drive to see Bushman paintings, but we were feeling so lazy and couldn’t muster the enthusiasm. Lucky for us in the end, as the vehicle was packed with 12+ people! Did we mention that the lodge is VERY busy? Last night, we estimated that 18 of the 20 chalets were occupied.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dinner was asparagus soup, oryx steak (once again), potato wedges, veggies, and cheesecake for dessert. We shared the main course and skipped dessert as neither of us was very hungry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No travel and no wildlife spotted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Note about game drives: Ondjamba offers morning and all-day game drives (USD50 \/ USD85 per person) for those that want the chance to see the desert elephants. The problem is that, like everywhere else where we have been, the rain has moved the game – in this case, the elephant herd – to the north. So, there is only one remaining resident elephant named Benny. We decided against the game drive since it was very likely that we would see nothing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Note about lodges: Ondjamba, and other similar camps, are very remote – literally off the grid. They rely on solar for electricity, boreholes for water, and septic tanks for sewage. There are no conveniences like dishwashers or clothes washing machines, and certainly no clothes dryers. Everything is washed by hand and hung to dry in the arid heat \/ sun. It is incredible to think that a lodge like Ondjamba can feed and water 40+ guests on a daily basis, as well as clean and maintain 20 chalets where most guests stay no more than 2 nights. That is a lot of sheets and towels to launder, not to mention stocking provisions for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

14 April 2025<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Up at 7:15, in the shower, and ready for breakfast at 8:00. This morning, I opted for fried eggs and Markus had scrambled. We got checked out and left the lodge a few minutes after 9:00. The C35 between Uis and Henties Bay is under construction – it is being paved! – so there were “detours” around the main road for at least 25 kilometers. But, the good news was that the paving had been completed for the last 75 kilometers and we were able to make really good time toward the coast. We could definitely feel the marine effect as we got close to the ocean; the temperature cooled from 90* to 66* in the span of 100 kilometers (60 miles). At one point – about 30 kilometers north of Swakopmund, we left the road and drove out to the beach. It’s hard to imagine that it is nearly 7,300 miles from where we stood on the Atlantic Ocean coast earlier today to the same ocean shoreline at home in Florida. The world is a vast place! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We arrived in Swakopmund at 1:00 straight up. We found a place to park without too much difficulty and went for lunch at the Brauhaus, a German restaurant that we ate at 20 years ago. It was exactly as we remembered it. The food was delicious, the beer nice and cold, and all at a reasonable price. I had the lunch special of schweinegulasch (pork goulash) and Markus had schweineschnitzel “jager art” (pork schnitzel “hunter style”). Both were huge portions but we managed to eat nearly all of it. We definitely will not be eating dinner tonight!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We checked in to our lodge at 2:30. The setting was beautiful and the room was very nice (and spacious!). Wifi wasn’t great, but there is a connection, even though it was slow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The view of the dunes from our room was magnificent! We were amazed at the number of people that walk the dunes; there were even a few people jogging up and down multiple times. They must be training. We even saw a group “sledding” down the dunes. Looked like fun (until you have to walk back up to the top!). All of this activity and the wind is incredibly strong – you can see the sand blowing over the dunes – that had to make navigating more challenging. Don’t know if it will die down overnight.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Accommodation: Desert Breeze Lodge<\/a> (2 Nights; B & B)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Travel Distance \/ Time: 236 KMS \/ 3:50<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wildlife Spotted: Ostrich<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Continue to Part 6<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

8 April 2025 Our morning began at 7:00. We took a load of stuff to the truck and went for breakfast at 7:30.  We both opted for cheese omelettes with toast.  We got the rest of our stuff organized and …<\/span> Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"uagb_featured_image_src":{"full":false,"thumbnail":false,"medium":false,"medium_large":false,"large":false,"1536x1536":false,"2048x2048":false},"uagb_author_info":{"display_name":"admin","author_link":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/author\/admin\/"},"uagb_comment_info":0,"uagb_excerpt":"8 April 2025 Our morning began at 7:00. We took a load of stuff to the truck and went for breakfast at 7:30.  We both opted for cheese omelettes with toast.  We got the rest of our stuff organized and … Continue reading →","_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3428"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3428"}],"version-history":[{"count":58,"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3428\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4191,"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3428\/revisions\/4191"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/usontheedge.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3428"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}